Monday, October 27, 2014

Coat Inspiration #1.


Bi-colore lambswool coating coat, two superimposed jackets effect. Lapel collar in polyester and silk satin. Lining in acetate and viscose blend, two reece pockets in satin, zip-front. Linear forms, graphic design, Phoebe Philo is inspired by the male wardrobe and by the tailor spirit, pants, jackets, shirts, the base is classic and elegant. This apparent rigor is counterbalanced by the addition of colors, green, blue, Bordeaux and of fur and sheepskin which animate and feminize the collection. Pre-Fall collection 2011-2012 by Phoebe Philo

Friday, October 24, 2014

1950's blouse review - McCall's 8831

This blouse has been as much about learning finer sewing skills as it has been about getting a new garment. I have been studying sewing for the past year and have decided I will continue my education next year as well.

The thing I have been continously bad at doing all year is inset corners. I tried doing about 10 samples of inset corners at the beginning of the year and didn't see much improvement and recently failed again when I tried to do them at my tailoring course.

Pattern :McCall's 8831
Year: 1952
Size: 36" Bust
         30" Waist
         40" Hip
Yardage: View A  35" Striped lengthways- 2 5/8 yards. 2.4m
                               39" 2 3/8 yards. 2.2m
                               45" 2 1/4 yards. 2.1m
Fabric Suggested: Broadcloth, Chambray, Gingham, Shantung, Pongee, Surah, Linen, Pique, Jersey, Crepes.
Fabric I used:  
Alterations to Pattern: SS were straightened and flared 1cm for fit and ease of 3OL. 1cm SA on collar and neckline. Hem 8mm 3OL turned and stitched through. Sleeves under stitched. SA on main garment and sleeves at armhole 1cm. Trimmed sleeve on main garment to 4mm and then under stitched main garment and top stitched sleeve SA over main garment for strength.

Prep: fused top face of collar, sleeve facing, front facings.
Unit assembly: sleeves + facing under stitched + pressed. collar stitched 3 sides @ 1cm trim to 6mm turn  + press. darts and tucks in front and same for back. 
Garment Assembly: Shoulder seams + SS press open. bag facing to hem. stay stitch to notch for collar and clip. hem. DO INSET CORNERS ACCURATELY. edge stitch and trim bottom SA top stitch neatly.  3OL armhole. sew ends of collar to double notches and check accuracy catching facing. clip and turn under SA and either slip stitch in place or pull 2mm down on previous stitching and catch in place by ditch stitching.


Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Classic Shorts

These are the Chloe Pleated Cady Shorts that I have been admiring lately. This photo is from net-a-porter website and shows all the lovely details of these shorts. I think in a colour like black or navy I could get quite a few seasons of wear out of these!

The fly front is a nod to menswear ( I'd face the zip back the other way)  and I love the belt loops over those little front pleats. I'd have a go at pick stitching the pocket edges as well.

Net-a-porter says these are tailored for a loose fit and are mid-rise, and equally important in a mid-weight non-stretch fabric. The back features two single welt pockets and the waist band seems quite a bit wider than the usual width.

The fabric is :
55% acetate, 45% viscose; lining: 70% acetate, 30% silk

My fabric choice:

Linen / viscose  blend
 it is a soft black colour and should be nice to work with!   and should give a very relaxed look

MaxMara 2014 s/s Hand Stitch Detail

I came across this little detail while looking on the MaxMara website. I believe the fly zipper is done with a pick/prick stitch by hand rather than decorative machine stitching. This is definitely something I want to try once I get this personal fit slack pattern fixed, perhaps a Pick/prick stitch might look nice. The MaxMara site also had some nice quality detail shots of the inside stitching of their coats which are nice to see...

Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Ladies Slacks- Using the Runschau Draft

The Rundschau drafting system seems to be respected on The Cutter and Tailor forums and I love reading the comments from the professionals. If you do sign up to The Cutter and Tailor forums, please remember that you'd be wise to just read and absorb, I just think it shows more respect to those who are more advanced.

My first experiment is with this ladies slacks Rundschau draft posted here

I also found a great blog post from A Tailor Made blog. It goes through the most common terminology you will encounter using a pattern draft.

My first job is to try to take some seriously accurate measurements.

Crotch Depth
Leg Length
Thigh Measurement?

This is the sort of look I was after

it kind of looks like the crotch might need some extra length here? it seems like the waistband might be pulling forward in the middle. I'm not sure what this fabric is but please let me know if you know what brand they are!